Extras: Passo Stelvio

Perched at 2,757 meters above sea level, Stelvio Pass (Passo dello Stelvio / Stilfserjoch) is one of the most iconic mountain passes in the Alps—and arguably the world. From the first switchback on the Italian side, the road unfolds like a ribbon of engineering brilliance, climbing steeply through dramatic alpine scenery. Its 48 hairpin bends on the northern side make it a bucket-list destination for drivers, cyclists, and motorbike enthusiasts, who all thrill at the dizzying heights and curves.

From the very first steps, the route reveals a landscape shaped by both glaciers and centuries of human activity. The first section of the hike is rather unremarkable, resembling a moonscape more than a typical alpine trail. The only thing that adds perspective is remembering that you’re starting at an altitude of 2,900 m—almost like getting a head start on the adventure.

The second hike of the day, leading to Rifugio Baita Ortler, follows this trail all the way to the last visible building in the distance, right before the snowfield.

Monte Scorluzzo is also notable for its historical connections. The area was strategically significant in both World Wars, with remnants of military paths, shelters, and markers scattered throughout the high terrain. Walking these trails, hikers are literally treading through layers of history—from ancient shepherds and traders to soldiers and modern adventurers.

A fun quirk of Stelvio Pass is its “alpine carousel” effect: from certain hairpins, looking down the road, you can see the serpentine path snaking down the mountain in a hypnotic spiral. It’s a favorite photo spot for visitors, and many pause just to marvel at the combination of human ingenuity and natural beauty.

The third part of the stroll was heading back to Stelvio pass and from there to Rifugia Garibaldi and further to Piz Cotschen pass.

Follow a broad trail that climbs in about 20 minutes to Cima Garibaldi, a landmark where three language regions meet (Italian, German, Romansh) and where the border with Switzerland is.

From Cima Garibaldi, the route follows the ridge—a section that is somewhat technical and not ideal for those with a fear of heights, though with a bit of caution it can be managed without major difficulty.

The hike offers sweeping views across the Ortler group and the Stelvio road ramps.

Along the trail, there are remnants and info points connected to World War I—consider visiting if interested in history. 

While Italy started the World War I as neutral, it was viewed with suspicion by its northern neighboors and troops patrolled the frontier along this high mountain border.

When Italy declared war on Austria-hungary in 1915, it was clear that battles at high altitudes, unprecedented in history cannot be avoided. At the outbreak of hostilities, there were no military installations in the high mountains, just ice and snow, fierce storms and arctic cold.

The surrounding ridges (Monte Scorluzzo 3094 m and Nagler Spitze 3295 m) became heavily contested. These peaks allowed control over the Stelvio Pass road, which was vital for supplies and troop movements.  

The Ortler mountain massif was the highest front during the first World War. It was a strange campaign in a region where, in many cases, people on both sides already knew each other.  Even though there was fighting, raids and shootings neither side was particulary zealous about waging war against each other. When Italians were expecting a change of officers, they would shout over to the Austrians: "Austriaci, attenti al cambio!". The story of guns in WWI falling silent at Christmastime has become almost common, when austrian tobacco was exchange for white bread of the italians.

At 3,000–4,000 meters, weather can shift dramatically within hours—sun, sudden 25°C drops, blizzards, storms, hail, or dense fog. Soldiers quickly learned that nature was often a greater threat than the enemy: fog could erase visibility, hurricane winds tore apart shelters, and avalanches buried entire teams. During the harsh winter of 1916–17, up to 8 meters of snow fell, forcing troops to dig constantly to avoid suffocation. Even today, extremes remain—one 2022 storm recorded winds of 240 km/h before instruments failed.

The Stelvio Pass front was defined by brutal mountain warfare where control of Scorluzzo and surrounding peaks meant dominance over supply routes. Despite constant battles, avalanches, and harsh alpine weather, the front line barely shifted until the war’s end. 

In total it is estimated that there were more than 2 milion casualties in WWI between the 2 neighboring countries.  On the Ortler front many soldiers did not die directly from enemy fire, but from avalanches, frostbite, cold, altitude sickness, and rockfalls. The Ortler Front was less about personal enmity and more about geopolitical ambitions. Ordinary mountain men, once neighbors, were forced to fight in brutal high-alpine conditions, leaving behind scars on both the land and the local communities.