Part 3
Islands of Falster and Møn & south coast of the island of Zealand, Danemark
Islands of Falster and Møn & south coast of the island of Zealand, Danemark
Day 8 - Bike trip Møn Island - Lendemarke - Nyord Sogn - Møns Klint
Time of the year: September
View from the accommodation in Bakkebølle, a quiet stable house with rooms for renting.
Lendemarke’s roots stretch deep into Denmark’s agrarian past. Like many villages on Møn, it grew around farming, faith, and community — the essential triangle of rural Danish life for centuries. Fields still frame the village much as they did generations ago, and the layout feels organic, shaped by use rather than design.
heading north towards Nyord Sogn
Nyord Sogn feels less like a place on a map and more like a pause in the world. Just north of Møn, connected by a narrow causeway, it exists in a delicate balance between land and water, past and present. Everything here seems gently held — by the wind, by tradition, by an unspoken agreement to keep things simple.
bridge crossing to Njord
Nyord Sogn attracts those who seek stillness with depth. Artists, walkers, and thoughtful travelers come not to do much, but to notice more. It’s a place that rewards slowness — where a short walk can feel like a long reflection, and a quiet evening can feel complete.
The meadows around Nyord are among the most distinctive in Denmark. Flat, wide, and luminous, they shift constantly with light and weather. Walking here feels expansive, almost meditative. The sky plays an outsized role, changing the mood hour by hour, season by season.
coming back through a rough path on the Hegningen side
Heading east towards Møns Klint. Here, Møn flattens out. The land stretches rather than rises, opening into meadows, wetlands, and long views where sky and earth negotiate quietly. Roads curve instead of cut, and villages appear almost incidentally, as if they’ve always belonged exactly where they are.
This is the part of Møn for those who walk without counting steps, cycle without destinations, and measure days by weather rather than plans. It appeals to travelers who want space without emptiness, silence without isolation.
Møns Klint is not just a landmark — it’s an encounter. Rising sharply from the Baltic Sea, the white chalk cliffs feel almost unreal, as if the island briefly decided to reach for the sky. This is the dramatic edge of Møn, where geology, history, and human awe meet face to face.
Trails wind through the forest canopy before opening suddenly to panoramic views. The descent to the beach below is steep and demanding, but the reward is intimate: chalk beneath your feet, the cliffs towering above, the sound of the sea amplified by stone.
The cliffs are formed of chalk laid down over 70 million years ago, lifted and folded by ice-age glaciers into the towering wall we see today. Walking here is walking alongside deep time — every crack, every fallen fragment a reminder that this place is still changing.
Møns Klint has long held a special place in Danish imagination. Artists, scientists, and writers have come here not only to observe, but to contemplate. There’s a reverent quality to the space — not imposed, but felt — as if voices naturally lower in the presence of such scale.
The forest above the cliffs is just as essential as the view itself. Ancient beech trees cling to steep slopes, their roots gripping chalk and stone, creating a rare and fragile ecosystem that feels both wild and carefully balanced.
You leave with chalk dust on your shoes, wind in your thoughts, and a sense that you’ve briefly touched something far older — and far steadier — than yourself.
Unlike the dramatic cliffs of the east or the wide openness of the north, the south-east is defined by soft coastlines and cultivated land. Fields meet the sea without drama, and small inlets and harbours provide natural refuge. It’s a landscape shaped by use — farming, fishing, and everyday movement — rather than spectacle.
This part of Møn appeals to those who value calm over contrast. It’s ideal for slow cycling, coastal walks, quiet swims, and evenings that end with light fading rather than plans being made.
Private path from the acomodation in Bakkebølle towards the beach.
Day 9 - Bike trip: from Nykobing
Time of the year: September
Leaving Nykøbing Falster’s last cafés and shop windows give way almost without warning to open land, where the road stretches straight and patient through fields that seem to breathe with the seasons. This is Falster at its most honest: flat, fertile, quietly productive, and deeply shaped by centuries of people working in rhythm with the soil.
The countryside between Nykøbing Falster and Ulslev does not try to impress. It unfolds slowly, in long horizons of sugar beet, barley and wheat, broken only by hedgerows, drainage ditches and the occasional windbreak of trees.
Historically, this land has fed Denmark. For centuries it has been cultivated, divided, reorganised and modernised, yet it still carries echoes of medieval farming patterns and village life.
As you move further east, the air subtly changes. The fields begin to open toward the Baltic, the wind feels saltier, and the sense of enclosure loosens
Ulslev Strand feels local and unpolished, a place for evening walks, simple swims and watching the sun lower itself gently into the water.
The landscape itself does most of the talking. Dunes rise softly behind the beach, covered in grasses that bend constantly with the wind, while inland pine forests provide shelter and a deep green contrast to the pale sand
The wide Baltic beach stretches endlessly, pale sand meeting shallow, calm water, and everything about the place encourages you to slow down, kick off your shoes, and stay a little longer than planned.
Approaching Marielyst, gentle exhale at the edge of Falster, where the land finally loosens its grip and lets the sea take over.
Historically, Marielyst is a young place by Danish standards. Where nearby villages grew around churches and farmland, Marielyst emerged with the rise of seaside leisure in the early 20th century. What began as summer houses tucked into dunes has grown into one of Denmark’s most beloved beach resorts, yet it has managed to retain a relaxed, almost understated charm.
Life revolves around the beach: swimming, strolling, cycling, or simply sitting still and listening to the sea. Nothing here demands your attention, yet everything gently holds it.
Gedser feels like an ending — and a beginning at the same time. Standing here, at Denmark’s southernmost point, you sense geography giving way to openness, as if the country gently dissolves into the Baltic Sea. The wind is almost always present, carrying salt, movement and a quiet reminder that this place has always been about departure, arrival and the long stretch in between.
The landscape is where Gedser truly speaks. Low cliffs meet the sea, waves roll in with a steady persistence, and the horizon feels unusually wide. Walking along the coast, you notice how exposed everything is — there is little shelter, little distraction, just sky, water and land meeting in simple lines. On clear days, you can almost feel Europe nearby, not as a destination, but as an idea hovering beyond the water.
People come here to walk, to think, to mark the edge of something. Cyclists pause to touch the southernmost marker, walkers follow the coast paths, and visitors linger longer than expected, caught by the raw calm of the place. There are no crowds demanding attention, no attractions asking to be consumed. Gedser invites patience.
Historically, Gedser has been defined by connection. Long before tourism, it was a point of passage: ferries crossing to Germany, sailors navigating the narrow waters, goods and people moving between Scandinavia and continental Europe
The waterfront is where Nykøbing Falster truly opens up. Walking along the Guldborgsund, you feel the connection between land and water that has shaped the town for centuries. Boats move slowly, the opposite shore always within sight, reinforcing a feeling of closeness rather than vastness. It’s a place for evening strolls, for watching light soften across the water, for letting the day gently settle.
Historically, Nykøbing Falster has always been a place of movement and exchange. Founded as a trading town in the Middle Ages, it grew around its strategic position between Falster and Lolland, where ships passed, goods changed hands, and royal interests once kept watch.
The castle that once anchored the town is gone, but its presence still lingers in the layout and importance of the place. History here isn’t staged; it’s embedded in street lines, church walls, and the modest elegance of old merchant houses that have seen centuries drift by.
Touristically, Nykøbing Falster works best when you don’t rush it. It’s not a checklist town. It’s a place to wander without purpose, to turn down side streets, to pause for coffee, to notice how history and modern life blend without friction.
From here, roads lead easily into open countryside, toward beaches, fields and quieter villages — but the town itself deserves time before you leave it behind.
The landscape is calm but expressive. The beach is stony and understated, opening onto shallow water and long views toward the horizon. Wind moves freely here, shaping clouds, grasses and moods. Walking along the shore, you notice how the light changes quickly, how the sea shifts colour, how silence becomes something you actively experience rather than the absence of sound.
Hesnæs feels like a place that exists slightly outside of time, tucked away on the northeastern edge of Falster where the land narrows and the sea presses close. Arriving here, the road seems to soften, as if it knows it is leading somewhere gentle. The village unfolds quietly, with low houses, narrow lanes and a harbour that feels more like a shared backyard than an arrival point.
The village is known for its distinctive wooden houses, painted in soft, weathered colours that seem chosen to sit comfortably with sky and sea rather than stand out. There is a strong sense of local identity here — not loud or performative, but rooted in familiarity and shared space.
Hesnæs offers almost nothing in the conventional sense, and that is precisely why it lingers in memory. It is a place for slow walks, for sitting by the harbour with no plan, for watching boats rock gently and birds skim the water. Visitors come not to consume experiences, but to borrow the village’s calm for a while.
Stubbekøbing sits quietly on the northern tip of Falster, a town shaped as much by the sea as by the centuries of farmers and craftsmen who have lived here. Walking its streets, you feel the rhythm of a place that grew slowly, almost organically, around its harbour and the modest town centre. The old timbered houses and low brick buildings hint at lives lived simply but fully, their façades worn by wind, rain, and generations of small joys and labours.
Stubbekøbing was a hub for trade and ferries, a point of connection between Falster and the islands of Lolland and Bogø, and its harbour still carries that quiet memory. Boats come and go, smaller now than in centuries past, yet the harbour retains the measured pulse of maritime life: tides, fishermen, the occasional ferry, and the steady gaze of those who have always watched the water.
Day 10 - City breaks
Vordingborg feels like a town that knows its own weight in history, yet carries it lightly. Set where land and water meet, it has long been a place of strategy, movement and quiet authority. Walking through Vordingborg today, you sense that this is not just another provincial town, but one that once stood at the very centre of Danish power — and never quite forgot it.
The presence of the past is unmistakable. Gåsetårnet rises above the town as a calm, red-brick reminder of royal ambition and medieval might. Once part of a vast castle complex built by King Valdemar Atterdag, it watched over sea routes, borders and enemies, asserting Denmark’s strength toward the south. Though most of the castle is gone, the ruins remain woven into everyday life, not fenced off from it. Children play nearby, locals pass through without ceremony, and history feels integrated rather than displayed.
Culturally, Vordingborg balances dignity with ease. The town centre is walkable and relaxed, with shops, cafés and quiet streets that invite lingering rather than rushing. There is a sense of civic pride here, rooted not in showiness but in continuity. People seem aware that they live somewhere significant, yet life unfolds in an unpretentious, distinctly Danish way. The past informs the present without overshadowing it.
Vordingborg does not overwhelm. It offers depth rather than distraction. Visitors come to stand beneath Gåsetårnet, to trace the outline of the old castle walls, to stroll between town and water and feel how geography shaped history. It rewards curiosity and patience more than itineraries.
Tucked on the southern coast of Zealand, Præstø is the kind of Danish town that feels familiar even on first visit. It’s compact, walkable, and quietly proud of its history, yet it never overwhelms. Life here moves at a gentle pace, punctuated by the rhythm of the harbour, the church bells, and the occasional market day.
The streets of Præstø are lined with charming half-timbered houses, pastel-painted façades, and cobblestones that hint at centuries of careful maintenance. Every corner seems to invite slow wandering rather than hurried sightseeing.
Præstø grew where the bay meets the land, its history inseparable from the sea. Once a modest port town, it served as a hub for trade and fishing. Today, the harbour is still the town’s heartbeat — sailboats, small fishing vessels, and the occasional café-lined quay giving it life and color without ceremony.
Events like weekly markets, concerts, or seasonal festivals feel naturally part of life, not orchestrated for visitors. Here, the rhythm is human, unhurried, and intimate.
Præstø is for those who like to see and feel a town rather than tick off sights. It rewards curiosity, patience, and a love of small details — from painted shutters to boats rocking in the harbour at sunset.
You leave Præstø not with memories of monuments, but with a sense of rhythm, warmth, and the subtle joy of everyday life lived gracefully.
Strand ved Roneklint and Roneklint Fyr
Jungshoved Church